Royal Barges National Museum-Bangkok, Thailand

Royal Barges National Museum

Housed in sheds on the northern banks of Khlong (Canal) Bangkok Noi near the Chao Phraya river are one of Bangkok’s most fascinating sights. Here, across the khlong from the old Thonburi Railway station and Siriraj Hospital one can find the King of Thailand’s fleet of Royal Barges lying peacefully in a huge shed.

They are ornately decorated boats with magnificently carved prows that at one time served a military function, but today are limited to use in State ceremonies and celebrations. The last occasion for their use is in celebration of the Kings 60 th Anniversary of ascension to the throne. was held on June 12, 2006.
To view this magnificent collection you can go by tour bus or boat but if you prefer to immerse yourself in contemporary Thai culture then follow my six step guide. Hey you even get some free walking exercise as a bonus.

Step one. Print out this article before you leave home, or download it into your PDA, and take it with you. If you forget that’s okay you can go online in Bangkok at any of hundreds of Internet café’s, download & print it there.

Step two. Go to the concierge desk in your hotel lobby and get the following information:
• Ask how to get to Sathorn Pier on the Chao Phraya River. This tour starts from Sathorn Pier (Stop # 0) also known as Central Pier.
• A hotel business card with the return address in Thai writing on it. This is important. You may get lost and have to take a Meter Taxi back to the hotel! Hey, there’s no extra charge for getting lost!
• The nearest ATM machine location or money changer. You want some small Baht bills.

Step three. Get yourself to Sathorn Pier (aka Central Pier # 0) on the Chao Prahya River anytime between 8.00 AM - 2.00 PM. I suggest you use the BTS (Sky Train) and get off at the last stop, Saphan Taksin you will need to walk towards the Chao Phraya river (West) about 200 yards. Bear left as you approach the river bank.

Step four. From Sathorn Pier (Central Stop # 0) take a Nonthaburi Ferry boat north to Ta Chang Pier (Stop # 9). Ask at the information booth on Sathorn Pier for the next boat. They normally leave every 20 minutes or so and most northbound Nonthabury ferries stop at Tha Chang. Fare 8-13 Baht.

Step five. Get off at Tha Chang Pier (Stop # 9), turn left and avoiding the touts and tour boat operators attention, walk firmly to the second pier on your left. Here you will board the cross river ferry boat to Phran NokPier (Stop # 11). Fare 3 Baht payable on the Thonburi side.

Step six. Now the fun begins! When you arrive at Phran Nok Pier get off and turn right, walk a few paces and then turn left. This will bring you out onto Soi Pram Nok a busy market and local transport hub lies ahead of you. If you want to take a motor cycle taxi (15 Baht) or Tuk (50 Baht) good luck. I suggest you walk the 1.5 Kilometers to the museum. Good exercise and you can always take local transport back to the Phran Nok Pier if you are feeling tired later. Just ask for Phran Nok Pier at Siriraj hospital.

Back to walking. Walk about 500 yards away from the river along Soi Phran Nok with Siriraj (Pronounced Siri rat) Hospital on your right to the first major intersection (Arun Amarin Road). Turn right here and walk straight ahead towards a road bridge over Bangkok Noi Khlong that you can see ahead of you. Stay on the right side of this road (Arun Amarin Road. You will be on the street level until you see a set of steps going straight ahead up and over the Arun Amarin road bridge.

Look to your right from the bridge mid point and you will see the Royal Barge Museum on the north bank of Khlong Bangkok Noi and the old Thonburi railway station building on the south bank. As you descend, via another set of steps, on the far side of the bridge, keep walking straight ahead about another 100-150 yards and you will see the entrance sign to the Museum. Enter this narrow alleyway marked by a TAT tourist sign and a few local food vendors and follow the signs to the Museum entrance. An interesting walk zig zags its way along a narrow path through Riverside people’s backyards! You’re here. Enoy.

Entry fee 30 Baht.
Open 9.00 AM-5.00 PM

Note in the lead up to major barge flotillas the barges are moved to the nearby Naval base for refurbishing and for rehersals on the river for about six weeks before the event. During these periods the museum is closed. Better check by calling the TAT (02) 250 5500 (120 lines).

The Royal Barge fleet consists of 52 vessels. Each is a masterpiece of marine and traditional craftsmanship. They feature a variety of figureheads on their bows, including a sacred Garuda, Hanuman and the seven heads of Naga. On ceremonial and other important occasions the King goes for a spin in his personal barge, Suphanahong on the mighty Chao Phraya River.

The Royal Barge Procession is one of the most spectacular events in the world. The LAST big outing was 12 June, 2006 for the 60Th Anniversary of the King’s Ascension to the Throne. The most impressive and important boat is the Kings personal barge, Suphanahong which was built in 1911. It is 46 meters in length hewn from a single tree and covered with intricate gilt carvings and colorful pieces of glass. The design is representative of a mythical swan. The crew consists of 54 oarsmen who paddle in time to the rhythmic beat of a drummer.

In formation the fleet travels in rows five abreast and more than one kilometer from the leading barge to those at the rear. These are propelled by 2,082 specially trained naval personnel.

When you have finished browsing and staring in amazement at the incredible craftmanship, art, cultural heritage and technology represented by the Royal Barge collection you can make your way back to Phran Nok Pier (Stop 11) for the return trip to Sathorn Pier by retracing your route.

As a free bonus, I suggest you take a quick look at the old Thonburi railway station building that is now an information center for the Royal Barges and other historic boats. Old Thonburi railway station is located on the south bank of Bangkok Noi Khlong (Canal) almost opposite the Royal Barges Museum. You reach it by crossing back over on the Arun Amarin road bridge and turning left to follow Bangkok Noi Khlong towards the Chao Phraya river.

The station building itself is a fine example of 18th Century (1900) architecture. Rebuilt in 1950 after being destroyed by allied bombs in World War II the building is as it stood in 1900.
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(C) Copyright Geoff Ogilvie 2018